sdcanoe
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egg
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Reged: 03/18/05
Posts: 2
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I have a factory built Sage 10' 8wt. SLT and am wondering if it is possible to install a small lower grip to make a light weight spey like the Meiser switch rod. Would the entire reel seat have to be removed or could a grip be installed in place of the fighting butt? Any advice on the grip or the whole idea of using this rod for a light spey will be appreciated.
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vangofishin
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silver
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Reged: 12/21/03
Posts: 113
Loc: Camas Wa.
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How long is the grip now ? If the foregrip is long enough I don't see why not . 10' seems a little short for a spey rod , but I'm not a spey fisherman . Here's what I would do if I was trying to acomplish this : 1 Take the current buttcap/fighting butt off ( you can heat it up with an alcahol torch and twist it off) 2 Find a peice of scrap blank that fits inside of the butt end of your rod SNUGGLY 3 glue this into the butt end of your rod 4 put on cork for your reargrip 5 shape and voila mini spey . You are in efect creating a butt extension . If you want it to be more sturdy I suggest taking off the reel seat and inner and outer sleeving it with two peices of scrap blank ( same peice inside butt put an extra peice that fits over the smaller one so you have a contiuos flush surface and then wrap with fiberglass strand (should be able to get at a hardware store or component catalog) glue on with 5 min epoxy and sand smooth , then put your cork on . Good luck .
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sdcanoe
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egg
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Reged: 03/18/05
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Vangofishin,
Thanks for the information. I am glad to hear that the grip is a possibility. I do not work on rods myself, but what you described does not sound like it would be too much work for a pro, or is taking the reel seat off alot more work than the removal of the fighting butt?
Steve
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vangofishin
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silver
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Reged: 12/21/03
Posts: 113
Loc: Camas Wa.
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It depends on what the reel seat is glued on with . If it is rodbuilders epoxy It should come off with just a little heat , and alcahol lamp will work but a heat lamp might be best . Some other types of glues make it next to impossable to get the seat off , But If this is a factory rod I put money on it that it will come off relatively easy , To avoid marring the seat use a pair of pliers and a peice of leather to protect it . Yes its more work , but it may be the better route . Yes if you know a good builder they should definately be able to do this it is a relatively simple process . It does take a little time and extra attention , but is feasable .
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