Marty
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redneck yachter
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Reged: 07/17/00
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Loc: Olympic Peninsula
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With my new windcutter I have 5 new tips.. what type connections are you using? I was going to add nail knot/foot of heavy mono with loop/ then use a leader.
shoot some holes in this and how long of a leader is suggested?
My maximum depth for holding fish is 8-9 ft... I know this from our depth finder unit we used to map river. 
River is medium speed with cut bank on one side, gravel bar on other side.
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Marty
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REDSHED
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steelie
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Loc: Peck, Idaho USA
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Your plan sounds good to me. For tips I like 3' to 5' of leader depending on clarity. The leader for the floating tip should be as long as your rod.
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fredaevans
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Thick Tail
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Loc: Upper Rogue River- Oregon
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Quote:
REDSHED said:
Your plan sounds good to me. For tips I like 3' to 5' of leader depending on clarity. The leader for the floating tip should be as long as your rod.
Agree with Mike on leader length with sink tips. Only one thing that you have to keep in mind (imho) is the longer the leader you're using the more important it becomes to use a weighted fly (even with a sink tip). A long leader allows the fly to 'float up,' which is rather 'counter-productive.'
Where Mike and I 'disagree' is the length of a dry line leader: one and half the length of the rod. If you can go longer, go for it! That said, you'll find that when you get to two rod lengths it gets darned interesting to cast. From about 1.5 and up you'll start to get a lot of 'hinging.' Not a good thing as a goodly part of your leader will fold up rather than 'lay out.'
Some benefit to this as it allows the fly to sink far faster.
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Fred A. Evans
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REDSHED
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steelie
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Loc: Peck, Idaho USA
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Fred, If he had a little experience I could agree with you on the length of the floating line leader but for a new spey caster a 15' (14' after it's nail knotted on) Rio spey leader will work as good as anything and is plenty for the anchor.
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Marty
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redneck yachter
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Reged: 07/17/00
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Loc: Olympic Peninsula
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Tapered on a dry leader? and a straight mono chunk for the sinker?
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Marty
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Black_Ghost
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Thick Tail
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Loc: Western GLs
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Yes, although for steelhead I hardly ever bother with a very tapered leader but I am using wet flys and nymphs 99% of the time due to the lack of dry fly steelhead fishing out here.
BG
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"The ability to delude yourself may be an important survival tool."
Jane Wagner
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Marty
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redneck yachter
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Loc: Olympic Peninsula
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not to be to stupid but why the longer leader for the dry? Is this a presentation issue or casting?
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Marty
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REDSHED
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steelie
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It is a casting issue. The longer leader for the dry tip is to give you the anchor so when you form your D loop you can properly load the rod. When using sinktips or sinking lines the sinking portion will form the anchor so the need for a longer leader is not there.
Many of us have/had problems with "pulling the anchor" especially when starting to learn spey casting This is caused by using to much power going into the D loop which jerks the leader and fly loose from the surface film where it then follows the path of the line through the D loop causing a loss for forward momentum.
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TallFlyGuy
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Big Brat
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Loc: SW WA
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For leader length, using sink tip I use the following formula...
One foot of leader for every one foot of visibility, out to 8 or 9 feet. Pretty simple, and easy to remember.
Tall
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My Fly is bigger than yours
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fredaevans
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Thick Tail
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Loc: Upper Rogue River- Oregon
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Quote:
REDSHED said:
It is a casting issue. The longer leader for the dry tip is to give you the anchor so when you form your D loop you can properly load the rod. When using sinktips or sinking lines the sinking portion will form the anchor so the need for a longer leader is not there.
Many of us have/had problems with "pulling the anchor" especially when starting to learn spey casting This is caused by using to much power going into the D loop which jerks the leader and fly loose from the surface film where it then follows the path of the line through the D loop causing a loss for forward momentum.
True, spey cast are a 'change of direction' cast. Like a single hand rod, everything is done on/in a 180 degree plane. With a single hand rod it's all that faulse casting that allows you to move the line around from down stream to 'across stream.'
With a spey cast, it's where you place your anchor/"pick" that gives you the angle change. Think of a gun barrel. The anchor is the front site, the rod tip the back site. Because of this you MUST cast over the top end of the anchor ... even if you don't want to. If you 'aim your cast higher' you get what's called "the bloody L." Think of the 'L' as a bucket in the water ... rather than it being lifted out of the water on the forward cast, line speed must drag it out of the water. Not a good thing.'
On a couple of other points Mike's made he's 100% on point about most 'new casters' applying TOO MUCH power into the rod. Frequently (close to always?) the problem is the casters ignoring the fact that the 'front lift' at the beginning of the cast is A SEPERATE action from the second part of the cast which forms the d loop, etc. This is commonly called "The Lift."
From the 'lift' you then go into the SECOND part of forming the cast. The THIRD part of the cast is the forward motion of your rod tip which propells your line forward over the anchor.
Biggest/most common error is doing what I call a 'one and a half' rather than a seperate 'lift,' then into the formation of the cast. This casues the down stream part of the line to be 'drug' through the water. The 'lift' is to get as much of it off the water surface.
Vis a vis the RIO spey leaders, they're cracker jack!! bit of kit!! I'd strongly recommenend you buzz mike up and get a few. They come in several tippet strenghs.
Fred
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Fred A. Evans
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