b51
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I've been collecting Fencwick FS83c's for about two years now. I have seven of them. They work great as baitdiver and plug rods. Some were like new. I have one with spinning guides. I'd like to either get rid of it or put casting guides on it. Any idea if that is feasible or worth the effort?
?\
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Brewer
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this can be done if absolutely needed. i would recommend you don't. it has to do with the spine in the blank. spinning rods have a spine on the topside of blank. while a casting rod has the spine placed on the bottum. plus the guide spacing is much different. all these things can be dealt with, but the rod won't look pretty, it will be usefull but not atractive.
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CastawayChris
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Good advice rick!
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ABUfreak
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the spine is just an inherent flaw in rod design, where the edges of the composite meet. almost every rod will also have some curvature.
any good rod builder will build their rod on the straightest axis -- if it's close to where the spine is at, have at it. you can also make a rod slightly stiffer by placing the guides 90 degrees from the spine.
since i don't think there was much(or any) difference between the spinning and casting reel seats on the old fenglass rods, you could probably do a casting guide setup fairly easily.
also, seeker(a company that builds only fiberglass blanks) offers a 2 piece 8'3, 6-15lb steelhead blank for around 50-60 bucks, if you want to go new.
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b51
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sockeye
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I'm going to leave this rod alone. I will check out the "seeker" company too.
b51
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b51
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sockeye
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ABUfreak,
The rod you are describing from seeker looks like the SH832. Is that the blank you referred to?
I bought two e-glass rods from Lamiglas that was supposed to be replicas of the old FS83c Fenwick rods, these were not even close. One final question. I am not a rod builder yet. Is there anyone on the board setup to build these for me?
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There is no merit where there is no trial; and until experience stamps the mark of strength, cowards may pass for heroes and faith for falsehood."
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Brewer
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there is many here who can build rods, i could. however i suggest you build them yourself. their not hard. it just takes time and care. there is plenty here who can help you along. trust me, there are no mistakes that we here have not already committed. winter time is the perfect time to takle rod building. great workshop/garage activity. order a catalog from angler's workshop, it has everything you need to get.
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ABUfreak
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Quote:
b51 said:
ABUfreak,
The rod you are describing from seeker looks like the SH832. Is that the blank you referred to?
I bought two e-glass rods from Lamiglas that was supposed to be replicas of the old FS83c Fenwick rods, these were not even close. One final question. I am not a rod builder yet. Is there anyone on the board setup to build these for me?
SSH832 looks like the one  i am definitely planning on building one before too long and i'll let you know how it turns out. the butt section seems to have a bit larger diameter than the fenwick(though i have never measured a fenwick) but seeing that is has a size 4.5 tip i think it's got a nice soft action.
is the lamiglas that you're referring to the CG82DR? i know, they don't feel much like the old fenwicks. they're rated 8-20, and are definitely more of a rod for running 15-20lb line on! the only one lamiglas makes that i think comes close is the XCF801, but it's 8-0" and a 1 piece unfortunately.
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Washougal
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If you spiral wrap the rod you can probably get away with putting your new single foot fly guides in the exact place as the others were. Put the stripper on top where the first spin guide was may work than just adding a single transition guide to keep the line of the blank as it goes to the bottom and your done without having much if any evidence you changed the rod from spinning to casting as far as old wrap evidence.
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Trouthead
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Quote:
Washougal said:
If you spiral wrap the rod you can probably get away with putting your new single foot fly guides in the exact place as the others were. Put the stripper on top where the first spin guide was may work than just adding a single transition guide to keep the line of the blank as it goes to the bottom and your done without having much if any evidence you changed the rod from spinning to casting as far as old wrap evidence.
Hmmmm, not sure about this. If the spinning guides are like most old rods, there are not many guides. Thats fine with the line below the blank. On top of the blank (casting guides) require more guides so that the line dosen't touch the blank.
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Washougal
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Trouthead,
That's why I suggested trying a spiral wrap only the closest guide to the casting reel is on top, the rest are on or on the way to the bottom just like the original rod was built.
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CastawayChris
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Actually Washougal, one transition is not goin to be enough on any rod! Three transition guides is the standard and you never start with the first guide directly on top! Steve, you would be correct that old fenwick is goin to have very few guides on it and to spiral wrap it properly you would have to have more guides than the original!
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Washougal
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Everyone has their opinion, but I've built many bass, walleye, sturgeon, halibut, salmon and steelhead rods with only one transition guide, as their only purpose is to keep the line from hitting the blank as it transitions to the bottom. Performance of the rods wasn't changed in any way. It's an easy thing to check, take your favorite 2 piece guides on top rod out to the river and temporarily tape a guide at 90 degrees half way between the first two guides from the reel if the second guide is on the tip section. If the second is on the butt section than put it between the second and third for the test. Than just rotate the guides to the bottom on the tip section and have at it. This will also tell you if the first guide is ok in the vertical position, I rarely have much if any line packing to one side on the reel of my rods.
That said the Fenwick has fished all these years with the guides it has on it now without blowing up, makes me believe it may survive a few years longer with guide spaced as is, changing guides and their position on the blank won't change that characteristic. I didn't say it was optimal, but if the person was concerned how the rod looked after removing the old guides and being able to get the blank back to a good cosmetic condition on his own, this was an option to try.
Wish I still had a Fenwick 83 sometimes as it was the rod I originally learned to salmon and steelhead fish with many years ago.
Edited by Washougal (10/19/07 08:08 AM)
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Alaskan
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Washougal, I agree, the simple spiral is a very good system. It get's the line to the bottom quickly, while still keeping the line off the blank. Try it chris, I'm sure you'll be impressed.
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Jeffhead
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I did what you are thinking about to an FS83, turned it from a spinner to a caster and pull plugs with it. It works great, just turned the rod 180 and added the appropriate number of guides for the casting version.
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Good luck and tight lines, Jeff
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CastawayChris
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Quote:
Alaskan said:
Washougal, I agree, the simple spiral is a very good system. It get's the line to the bottom quickly, while still keeping the line off the blank. Try it chris, I'm sure you'll be impressed.
I build many many rods! I HAVE!
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